What is the bet that I end up with melted plastic on my skin at some point??
Monday, September 28, 2009
The latest FrankenKirtle (tm) drama....
Okay, so I decided to use 'some' cable ties (around 10) spread out over the body of the corset for support. This seemed like a great idea UNTIL, I remembered that I have to trim the buggers and get them pushed about an inch deep into the channel so the ends are lower than the binding. Unfortunately, this task is not easy. When I cut the ends off the cable ties I get very sharp corners. I tried filing them with wood files - no good. The new solution (which has yet to be tried out - maybe at Fighter Practice/A&S tomorrow night) is to cut the ties with a pair of metal nippers, then use a lighter to melt the ends a bit, then use some small needle nose pliers to shove the ties deep into the boning channels.
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Conundrum of a burgeoning 'authenticy maven' - to cable tie or NOT to cable tie...
So, here's the deal.
Given my *ahem* Mae West-ish upper body, when making my current project (a corded corset) I decided to use some heavy duty cable ties periodically for added support -- because cord on its own would just not be stiff enough to hold things up or tight against the body.
However, since I really wanted to create as authentic an outfit as possible, the burgeoning authenticity maven in me is having problems with the use of the plastic cable ties. On the one hand, aside from the fact that I have now announced the use of cable ties to the world (okay, my 5 or so readers) no one would ever know about it. I mean, it isn't like anyone but Ken is going to get close enough to my corseted body to see that the cable ties are there.
On the other hand, I feel a bit 'wrong' about using the ties.
Hence the question...what to do...what to do?
Given my *ahem* Mae West-ish upper body, when making my current project (a corded corset) I decided to use some heavy duty cable ties periodically for added support -- because cord on its own would just not be stiff enough to hold things up or tight against the body.
However, since I really wanted to create as authentic an outfit as possible, the burgeoning authenticity maven in me is having problems with the use of the plastic cable ties. On the one hand, aside from the fact that I have now announced the use of cable ties to the world (okay, my 5 or so readers) no one would ever know about it. I mean, it isn't like anyone but Ken is going to get close enough to my corseted body to see that the cable ties are there.
On the other hand, I feel a bit 'wrong' about using the ties.
Hence the question...what to do...what to do?
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
FrankenKirtle fights back....
I am right-handed and at the moment my right hand is blisters, sore and trembling...due to FrankenKirtle fighting back!
I have spent the last hour wrestling boning materials into the corset section and my hand is SORE! The cord boning is an easy thing. I cut off a section of jute that is 4x the length of the channel, double it twice and thread it through the channel using a bit of floral wire. The jute goes through the channels like a hot knife through butter. However the cable ties are a another matter entirely.
I have spent the last hour wrestling boning materials into the corset section and my hand is SORE! The cord boning is an easy thing. I cut off a section of jute that is 4x the length of the channel, double it twice and thread it through the channel using a bit of floral wire. The jute goes through the channels like a hot knife through butter. However the cable ties are a another matter entirely.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
IT LIVES!!!! FrankenKirtle (tm) rises from the dust...
Well, I stayed home sick today, so between bouts of marking student assignments, I have been working on the FrankenKirtle (tm) -- mark 10 papers, work for a couple of hours, and so on.
What I've done...
On Sunday I used the Drea Leed's 'Corset Pattern Generator' to come up with the basic pattern. Now, I used this generator when I first attempted a corded corset, it ended up being far too small, so this time I over estimated the length by 3 inches and that seemed to help. I think when it is finished that I will have an inch or 2 gap at the back, but I can live with that.
Additionally, this pattern doesn't have straps, which is something I will be adding to it once the boning and binding has been completed.
To recap, the inner layer is white linen, middle layer is heavy canvas and the outer layer is white duck/drill. (see picture at right). Once the layers were cut out, I marked the center of the bust and drew a line, then sewed that line first. This line is then what I use the whole rest of the time to position the needle for all other lines.
To test how wide the channels needed to be I arbitrarily made the first channel 1cm wide, then tested it with my jute cord and some heavy-duty cable ties that I picked up as alternate boning if needed. When playing with the jute, 2 twisted strands didn't quite fill the channels, so I've decided to use 4. Also, to provide support near the laces I am going to give in and use two of the cable ties along each lacing edge. I feel this will provide the added suppo
rt needed to keep the fabric from buckling when the corset is laced up.
Rather than marking each line, I just moved my needle as far right as it will go, and lined the left edge of the presser foot up with the test line that I sewed first. Every now and then I'd find that I had wavered a little bit, so I would drag out my quilting ruler, and run a new 'straight' line. As a side note, for those who read my experience in creating the striped chemise -- sewing corset channels is also VERY good practice in sewing a straight line! Thanks to all of the practice I am definitely getting better! :)
I sewed straight channels until I reached the side of each bust (I tested this by holding it up in front of a mirror). On each side of the bust I have a series of straight and angled channels. Since the angled channels don't have a bottom opening, I will use cable ties in these (see picture at right).
At this stage all of the boning channels are finished, so the next task is inserting the cord into the channels. More pictures will be posted as things progress. Getting to this point has taken me about 5 hours (1 to cut out, and 4 to sew channels). The channels are VERY time consuming and a slow slog. I hope to have the cord in the channels by Thursday and have the whole corset part finished by Saturday so that I can start work on the farthingale.
What I've done...
On Sunday I used the Drea Leed's 'Corset Pattern Generator' to come up with the basic pattern. Now, I used this generator when I first attempted a corded corset, it ended up being far too small, so this time I over estimated the length by 3 inches and that seemed to help. I think when it is finished that I will have an inch or 2 gap at the back, but I can live with that.
Additionally, this pattern doesn't have straps, which is something I will be adding to it once the boning and binding has been completed.
To recap, the inner layer is white linen, middle layer is heavy canvas and the outer layer is white duck/drill. (see picture at right). Once the layers were cut out, I marked the center of the bust and drew a line, then sewed that line first. This line is then what I use the whole rest of the time to position the needle for all other lines.
To test how wide the channels needed to be I arbitrarily made the first channel 1cm wide, then tested it with my jute cord and some heavy-duty cable ties that I picked up as alternate boning if needed. When playing with the jute, 2 twisted strands didn't quite fill the channels, so I've decided to use 4. Also, to provide support near the laces I am going to give in and use two of the cable ties along each lacing edge. I feel this will provide the added suppo
rt needed to keep the fabric from buckling when the corset is laced up.Rather than marking each line, I just moved my needle as far right as it will go, and lined the left edge of the presser foot up with the test line that I sewed first. Every now and then I'd find that I had wavered a little bit, so I would drag out my quilting ruler, and run a new 'straight' line. As a side note, for those who read my experience in creating the striped chemise -- sewing corset channels is also VERY good practice in sewing a straight line! Thanks to all of the practice I am definitely getting better! :)
I sewed straight channels until I reached the side of each bust (I tested this by holding it up in front of a mirror). On each side of the bust I have a series of straight and angled channels. Since the angled channels don't have a bottom opening, I will use cable ties in these (see picture at right).
At this stage all of the boning channels are finished, so the next task is inserting the cord into the channels. More pictures will be posted as things progress. Getting to this point has taken me about 5 hours (1 to cut out, and 4 to sew channels). The channels are VERY time consuming and a slow slog. I hope to have the cord in the channels by Thursday and have the whole corset part finished by Saturday so that I can start work on the farthingale.
Sunday, September 20, 2009
The birth of Franken-kirtle....
Well, after being a good girl and marking 20 assignments before starting my sewing, I was finally able to start working on the Franken-kirtle. YAY! I have to say, marking those 20 papers was a loooong 5 hours! And I have 50 more to finish by Thursday morning! *groan*
Anyway, this evening I got the layers cut out -- inner out of linen (softer against the skin), heavy canvas for the middle layer and duck/twill for the outer layer. (I'll post pictures tomorrow.)
Now, before someone argues that a corset wouldn't be worn against the skin, let me explain my logic.
Anyway, this evening I got the layers cut out -- inner out of linen (softer against the skin), heavy canvas for the middle layer and duck/twill for the outer layer. (I'll post pictures tomorrow.)
Now, before someone argues that a corset wouldn't be worn against the skin, let me explain my logic.
Why I will NEVER make SCA garb out of ANY synthetic material....
Okay...I admit it. I started my SCA life with a poly-cotton dress made from a Simplicity 'Maid Marion' pattern that ended up looking like a cheesy 1970's prom dress, complete with an off the shoulder flounce. To cap off this synthetic, out of period nightmare, my first cloak was polyester velvet and I didn't have enough to match the nap, so it ended up looking two-toned.
As I matured in my SCA lifestyle, I remember hearing the oft repeated phrase "NEVER use polyester or synthetic fibers to make garb".
As I matured in my SCA lifestyle, I remember hearing the oft repeated phrase "NEVER use polyester or synthetic fibers to make garb".
Tales from the darkside - that is a trip to JoAnn's Fabric
Okay, the morning started quiet enough.. a quick Cracker Barrel brekkie, followed by a run to the grocery, mark 20-30 student assignments and then an afternoon of sewing. The problem is that Ken and I do some of our best thinking as a couple, while breakfasting at Cracker Barrel (must be something in the pancakes?).
Anyway, over brekkie we were debating/hashing out how best to incorporate elements of Ken's SCA arms into the black linen fencing hood that is his current pet project. He wanted to do some appliqued dove tailing onto the hem of it, I was of the mind that doing so would be far more difficult than he thinks (an opinion I still hold). Then we talked about using fabric paint, but were worried that would make the hem of the hood stiff and make it lay funny. Then I suggested that he use stem stitch and fill stitch to embroider his foxes (one major heraldic charge) onto each of the 4 gores in the base of the hood. At last...an idea worth following. One problem -- we can't find our embroidery hoops.
So, it was off to JoAnn Fabrics.
Anyway, over brekkie we were debating/hashing out how best to incorporate elements of Ken's SCA arms into the black linen fencing hood that is his current pet project. He wanted to do some appliqued dove tailing onto the hem of it, I was of the mind that doing so would be far more difficult than he thinks (an opinion I still hold). Then we talked about using fabric paint, but were worried that would make the hem of the hood stiff and make it lay funny. Then I suggested that he use stem stitch and fill stitch to embroider his foxes (one major heraldic charge) onto each of the 4 gores in the base of the hood. At last...an idea worth following. One problem -- we can't find our embroidery hoops.
So, it was off to JoAnn Fabrics.
Saturday, September 19, 2009
Back from a crafty hiatus with new ideas and inspiration!
Well, my crafty drought seems to have been broken thanks in part of preparing a dress analysis A&S class for our local SCA group. Now I am all inspired again and getting back to sewing.
First up - a corded corset for wearing under garb. The original plan was to make a separate corset and farthingale (medieval hoops skirt, but the more I think about it the more I think I'm going to actually attach the two parts into a kind of 'Franken-kirtle'. *lol* (Kirtle for those who don't know is kind of a medieval underdress that was tight and 'molded' the body).
So tonight begins the making of....
THE FRANKEN-KIRTLE!
(film at eleven....okay...well...pictures at least later :)
First up - a corded corset for wearing under garb. The original plan was to make a separate corset and farthingale (medieval hoops skirt, but the more I think about it the more I think I'm going to actually attach the two parts into a kind of 'Franken-kirtle'. *lol* (Kirtle for those who don't know is kind of a medieval underdress that was tight and 'molded' the body).
So tonight begins the making of....
THE FRANKEN-KIRTLE!
(film at eleven....okay...well...pictures at least later :)
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