What I've done...
On Sunday I used the Drea Leed's 'Corset Pattern Generator' to come up with the basic pattern. Now, I used this generator when I first attempted a corded corset, it ended up being far too small, so this time I over estimated the length by 3 inches and that seemed to help. I think when it is finished that I will have an inch or 2 gap at the back, but I can live with that.
Additionally, this pattern doesn't have straps, which is something I will be adding to it once the boning and binding has been completed.
To recap, the inner layer is white linen, middle layer is heavy canvas and the outer layer is white duck/drill. (see picture at right). Once the layers were cut out, I marked the center of the bust and drew a line, then sewed that line first. This line is then what I use the whole rest of the time to position the needle for all other lines.
To test how wide the channels needed to be I arbitrarily made the first channel 1cm wide, then tested it with my jute cord and some heavy-duty cable ties that I picked up as alternate boning if needed. When playing with the jute, 2 twisted strands didn't quite fill the channels, so I've decided to use 4. Also, to provide support near the laces I am going to give in and use two of the cable ties along each lacing edge. I feel this will provide the added suppo
rt needed to keep the fabric from buckling when the corset is laced up.Rather than marking each line, I just moved my needle as far right as it will go, and lined the left edge of the presser foot up with the test line that I sewed first. Every now and then I'd find that I had wavered a little bit, so I would drag out my quilting ruler, and run a new 'straight' line. As a side note, for those who read my experience in creating the striped chemise -- sewing corset channels is also VERY good practice in sewing a straight line! Thanks to all of the practice I am definitely getting better! :)
I sewed straight channels until I reached the side of each bust (I tested this by holding it up in front of a mirror). On each side of the bust I have a series of straight and angled channels. Since the angled channels don't have a bottom opening, I will use cable ties in these (see picture at right).
At this stage all of the boning channels are finished, so the next task is inserting the cord into the channels. More pictures will be posted as things progress. Getting to this point has taken me about 5 hours (1 to cut out, and 4 to sew channels). The channels are VERY time consuming and a slow slog. I hope to have the cord in the channels by Thursday and have the whole corset part finished by Saturday so that I can start work on the farthingale.
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