Yet more projects and plans...deadline Nov. 20 :)

I had a perfectly lovely day running errands with Ken yesterday. We ran all over hill and dale (namely Atlanta and the regions around it). Our goals were to hit the army/navy surplus stores hoping to get lucky and score some cheap camping equipment for the November SCA event we want to go to. While we didn't score cheap camping equipment, we DID pick up some nifty things for some sewing projects for that event.

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Stocking Version 1 - DONE!!

Well, tonight at A&S/Fighter Practice for the SCA I finally finished my first ever knitted stocking. The downside is that the way I finished the top line of stitches was done too tight so now I can't put the stocking on my leg anymore! Oh well, I always said this one would be a fighting favor for Ken. So I'm going to put some heart motif embroidery along the ankles (called 'clocks' on Elizabethan era stockings) and let Ken use it as a favor.

Later this week I'll begin working on my 'sample feet' to trial some different heel and toe methods. For the 'sample feet' I will only work up to the ankle, as the whole point of them is to trial different techniques in order to figure out what works best, what may be most period, etc... Then I will work on three other pairs of stockings for me.

• First pair: plain knee length stockings out of silk/bamboo (I'm allergic to wool). I will use a similar pattern to the 'mach 1' stocking, with the addition of a 'decorative' line of perl stitching down the middle of the back of the stocking -- kind of like Elizabethan seamed stockings -- without the seam. With this pair I will be generating a basic pattern (which I will then post here). I also plan to keep an accurate record of how long it takes me to knit each stocking.
  
• Second pair: red acryllic (because I have it on hand) stockings following a recreators pattern based upon the Elinore di Toledo red silk knitted stockings. This pair will have some lacy 'flower' motifs knitted into them.


• Final pair: (and likely the most time consuming) a pair of red (or white -- I haven't decided yet) silk knee length stockings in a floral motif knitted pattern, based upon the di Toledo stockings, but designed by me. This pair will use handspun red or white silk which is why it will take the longest. I will probably do most of the spinning by spinning wheel, although I really like spinning silk with a drop spindle. Heck, if I get really ambitious, I may spin white silk and dye it myself too!

Stocking Experiment - Version 1.0 Update - NEARLY DONE! (Woot!)

Well, this is just a quick update to show the current progress on my first stocking version. I am currently about 5 inches under the bend of the knee. Originally I had planned to make the stocking stop just over the top of the knee, but I think that might be awkward because I have 'full' calves. The problem is, if I narrow the stocking enough for it to fit the knee properly, it will be too narrow to get my chunky calf through. So, rather than going over the knee, I'm stopping just at the bottom of the knee and adding a 2-4 inch fold down cuff.

At this rate I will have version 1 of the stocking completed by the weekend, just in time to display at the Owl's Nest demo on Saturday. The next stocking will be made of red acryllic (because I have it hanging around and I am allergic to wool) and I will be meticulously recording the pattern for that stocking. Additionally, I will be trying a toe method based on the extant Egyptian style stockings. I haven't decided what style of heel to try for the second version, perhaps the Gunnister stocking heel type? Decisions, decisions.... :)

Knitted Stocking Version 1 -- progress report

Well, it is now week 3 of my 'Knitted Stockings Experiment'. What started as simply a quiet way to kill several hours has expanded to become a long term A&S project on different kinds of knitted stockings. Why? (You may well ask)...Simply because there is a lack of research available for SCAdians regarding socks, and they are such a simple, yet potentially integral part of a proper period wardrobe. So...I'm going to play with socks.

With regard to this "lil project", I am in phase 1, that is creating a basic pattern for a simple knitted stocking. This phase is more for me than anyone else really, since I had never knitted a sock before. It is proving to be really interesting and giving me lots of things to think about in revising the pattern for version 2.

The ultimate goal is to create several different versions of stockings with different types of heels and construction, based upon period methods for knitting and creating sewn hosen/stockings.

Progress Report

My knitted stocking 'Mach 1' is coming along nicely, helped along in part by a particularly nasty sinus infection turned pneumonia, which has had me laid low for the last week and a half. Feeling poorly and out of sorts, I spent quite a bit of time lazing about, watching silly television and knitting (in between naps and bouts of coughing that is).

I turned the heel while waiting for a doctors appointment this past Wednesday. It went much easier than I expected. I followed a heel pattern I found on the internet since I had not worked a heel before. Funnily enough, I expected the heel turning to be time consuming and fiddly, but it really was quite easy and finished within half an hour!

That said, the 'flat knitting' aspect of this particular heel method bothers me a bit from a period perspective since the use of 'perl' stitches is largely held to have been purely decorative; and in the flat stitching method it becomes a structural thing rather than a decorative one. This of course raises the question of how heels would have been created in period. I am mentally playing around with how they can be created by knitting in the round rather than partitioning out the parts and knitting in the flat.

Currently I am heading up the leg, approximately mid-calf. I've been pleasantly surprised with how quickly things are going, particularly since I am not the fastest knitter around (although perhaps I am improving a bit?). I plan to work on my stocking during the SCA demo in Marietta next weekend and with a bit of luck should have version 1 of my stocking project done by the end of the demo.

Knitting stocking project not withstanding, I will be working on two appliqued heraldic pillows later this week -- lumbar cushions for Ken and I to take to the demo next weekend. I will post pictures when they are finished.

A deviation from the 'plan'...but success nonetheless

Well, as my (few) readers know, I have a 'want to make' list a mile long. So, one would think that I would have started in on that, right? Hmm, not quite.

While my college roomie was in town the other weekend I volunteered to babysit her nearly 2 year old so she and her hubby could go see the Braves play. Since I am something of a novice with toddlers, when he fell asleep soon after mum and dad left, I did whatever I could to stay quiet for the afternoon so that he could keep on sleeping (let sleeping babies lie and all that!).

Keeping quiet presented a problem for me because I had planned to do some sewing, but with a baby in the house, breaking out needles, scissors and such didn't seem like a wise thing to do. So, as I sat there with 'Cinderella' playing softly in the background, I spied my long neglected craft basket with several skiens of yarn.

Initially I started winding a burgundy skein with the idea of making a pair of scoggers (Elizabethan 'arm warmer' sort of things). When doing that it occurred to me that I couldn't document scoggers in relation to my persona. Since my goal for the year is to create a completely period outfit for my persona, I didn't see the point in starting something that was not appropriate. To that end, I switched and picked up the cream colored yarn, deciding to try making a pair of knitted stockings.

A few notes:

• These are not 'Elizabethan' style stockings. I have not done much research on period socks/stockings/hose at this point, but I do know that Elizabethan style stockings had 'clocks' on the ankles. Since my period is more around 1480, I elected to go for a simple, more 'rustic' simple stocking.
• I do not claim that my methods at this stage are period. Again, since I haven't done much research at this stage, I can't say how period my pattern is, this is compounded by the fact that I am cobbling the pattern together as I go along.
• This is my first attempt at knitting a stocking or any other kind of 'sock' so it is definitely a learning process.

The way I'm approaching things is this....

From what research I have done for previous knitted projects (see knitted hats of the 15th C.) knitting patterns in period were not written down. Rather, it seems knitters learned the basics (increases, decreases for fitting, etc...) and knitted projects accordingly. Therefore, making the pattern up as I go along and fitting the sock to my foot or leg as needed, is an acceptably period way of going about it. Since my first attempt is likely not going to be 'perfectly' fitted, the second stocking will fit differently. I believe this too is period as it is not likely that two socks from the same pair will be exactly identical, a dropped stitch here, forgotten decrease there, and bang....you have a 'different' stocking.

At best, I figure I'll end up with a wearable pair of stockings even if they are a bit different in fit (since I plan to use what I learn on stocking 1, when making stocking 2). Failing that, if I really dislike having essentially 2 different stockings, I can always make a 3rd using the pattern from stocking 2, then relegate version 1.0 to being a fighting favor for Ken (kinda racy...but hey, at least it will have a use!).

What I've done so far

Since I really hate starting knitting in the round and wanted to work on the foot part first, I used a technique in which I started at the toes. By casting on to two needles using a figure eight cast on, I was able to use only 3 needles to knit the toes of my sock. This was definitely experimental for me as I didn't have a pattern for it, I was just playing around. Upon doing other research, it turns out that this technique is becoming quite popular amongst sock knitters. The bonus for this is that there is no seam at the toes.

After knitting up for several hours while the toddler was snoozing on the couch, I had gotten about 3 inches done, tried it on my foot and found that it was far too roomy. So I pulled it apart and started again the next day while Ken practiced fencing.

The toe looks vaguely 'duck billed' in this version (see picture at right). This is because I was doing the increases on both sides which was adding 2 too many stitches in each round. In the next version I plan to do my increases on one side only so that I end up with a stocking that will be right or left footed (depending on the side I put the increases on). I also think the duck-bill effect arose because of way my foot is shaped, I have a jutting bone near my big toe, but then my foot narrows significantly through the ball/arch/sole area.

At the moment I have knitted the heel flap and turned the heel (see picture at right: bottom of heel). This was a new experience for me, but so far it seems to be working as it should. My only concern is that the heel looks a bit narrow. I think for version 1.2 I will start with more stitches on the heel needle (maybe 14 instead of 10) and only decrease to 6 stitches (instead of 4). For the moment, I'm hoping that the heel area will stretch to fit my heel. If not, then a 'favor' this will be. :)

I am planning to knit up to the knee, just below it actually. Then I will make some tablet woven garters to hold the stockings up.

Due to the very nature of knitted stockings, there are very few extant examples, so there is alot that we don't know about them, leaving us really only able to make educated guesses.If you know of some good sources on period socks/stockings/hose, please feel free to post them to the comments section!

Striped Chemise - DONE

Well, the chemise has been done for two weeks now, but I am just now getting back to the blog.

After marking the the lines with the washable marker, I used the very thin (1/4 inch wide) black satin ribbon and stitched along the marked lines with a zigzag stitch. Getting the right size zigzag stitch is somewhat difficult, but is a key part of getting the ribbon to lay flat. If the zigzag is too narrow or you are not sewing straight, then the ribbon will end up looking slightly scalloped in shape rather than straight. The second stripe from the bottom shows this somewhat 'rippled' effect.

I was a bit miffed about this rippled effect initially but then remembered Mistress Constanzia's sewing mantra --

If it can't be seen 10 feet away or by candlelight, it isn't worth worrying about!

I really like that rule. :)

After sewing on all of the stripes, I put the shirt back together and finished the edges of the sleeves and neckline with black binding. I am pretty happy with the final result (pictured at right -- kindly ignore my headdress and red face. It was hot and my headdress was slipping off the back of my head -- Note to self, must make better headgear!).

So, what did I learn in doing this?

1. I need more work sewing a straight line! I have therefore decided that every chemise I make for myself, for the foreseeable future, will be a striped chemise. Putting the stripes on is an EXCELLENT exercise in sewing straight. Besides that, until I can work out the exact setting so that the zigzag doesn't cause a ripple, I vow to keep practicing.


2. Stripes are not overly hard to put on (if you don't worry about the ripples) but do alot for adding some non-shiny 'bling' to a Spanish oriented SCA outfit.

Next personal sewing project: a lightweight, Tudor style "payre'o bodies' (corset) out of linen and a farthingale (Spanish style hoop skirt).

Striped Chemise - Part 2

Disclaimer

While I do not claim to be ANY sort of expert when it comes to sewing or creating period garb, due to the complete lack of directions and detailed information regarding the creation of Spanish garb, I want to chronicle what I do. Suggestions, tips or tricks that you have are more than welcome -- feel free to leave a comment.

Today's adventure....

Despite wanting to be further along on this project by now, work things have conspired against me. That said, the original chemise has been taken apart and I have marked the sleeves for applying the black ribbon.

First, I folded the sleeve in half (lengthwise) and ironed it. Then I folded the already halved sleeve in half again and ironed the fold to a crisp edge. I continued this 'halving' of the sleeve until I had made 4 folds. Upon opening the sleeve I had 13 ironed 'lines' (see picture on right). Since Anderson (1979) notes that the most stripes seen on a sleeve was 11, I decided to turn every other ironed line into a 'stripe' line. (see picture to right, click to enlarge)

Once the ironing was done, I turned the sleeve wrong-side up. Using a blue wash-out pen (available at most fabric stores) I placed small dots every 1/2 inch along the length of every other ironed line. This put the resulting dotted lines approximately 3-4 inches apart. (see picture on right, click to enlarge)

By marking the dots on what is effectively the 'inside' of the shirt sleeve, when I turn it over to the 'right' side to apply the ribbons, I will be able to cover the dots on the outside. The beauty of this is if the dots (by some misfortune) do not wash out, they will be covered by ribbon and not show on the outside of the shirt.

Random notes

In taking apart the original chemise I noticed several stains on the sleeves. Originally I was a bit bummed about that and considered scrapping the project until I could afford some new cotton, but then I had an epiphany. In period, a stain would not immediately result in scrapping the material. So I've decided to put the striped chemise back together, applying stripes over the stains if they happen to be over one of the marked dots. While the ribbons won't cover all of the staining (there is one rather large-ish one) it will mimimize them somewhat. Also, I'm going to replace the sleeves on the chemise so that the worst stain is on the back of the arm -- a little creative license. :)

A bit of background on my SCA persona and my SCA interests

I've been involved in the SCA off and on for close to 20 years now (omg...has it REALLY been that long?). Originally, my interest was purely for socializing and playing 'dress-ups'. I shudder to think of my first garb, which I was so very proud of and now makes me CRINGE just thinking about it.

Made by hand in my dorm room, I used a McCalls pattern called 'Maid Marion'. The material was dark green poly-cotton, which had not been washed prior to sewing. While that is bad, the outfit itself is worse -- a straight skirt with elastic waistband and the equivalent of a green pirate shirt with a flounce around the neckline, which could be worn on or off the shoulder. In this get-up I trotted off to my first event feeling very stylish. Once I got there however, I saw that others wore clothing that did NOT look like a cheap Halloween costume, so I ended up spending the rest of the day hiding in my friends cloak to 'hide my shame'.

Since then, my love of doing research (I have a PhD...call me a glutton for punishment) has extended to my SCA hobby. In Australia, my husband and I had the particular good fortune to fall into the Barony of St. Florian-de-la-Riviere, where we were encouraged to do research before creating our garb or developing a persona (long story - check out http://www.sca.org/ for more information). Under the careful tuteledge of Mistress Constanzia Moralez y Zamora, Raphael (my husband Ken) and I made some of our first researched and correctly made (and fitted!) garb. Finally we didn't have costumes, we had CLOTHING....who knew there was such a distinction?!

A bit about my persona

Initially I planned to have a celtic persona, but my love of research and accuracy won out. Sadly, there is very little concrete evidence regarding the clothing and lifestyle of the Irish or Scotts during my preferred time period (1480-1540). Given that Constanzia was so knowlegable about Spanish clothing and lifestyle, I opted to develop a Spanish persona.

My current SCA name is Esperanza Sanchez de Calatrava. I don't have a fully fledged 'persona' story like some SCAdians do. I don't claim to be a 'noble', in fact most of my current garb is more 'workaday' wear -- simple costumes made of cotton drill and muslin (at the time I couldn't afford linen which would have been more period). For instance, the dress to the right is a light sage green drill, with a lined bodice (canvas and drill), a simple cotton chemise and tie on sleeves.

This has been my 'fancy' dress for several years now, as the neckline has some black gimp accented with pearl beads and the sleeves are lined in black linen with fancy pearl and goldtone button closures. As a basic dress it works, but there are accuracy issues that I want to correct. First, the bodice needs more appropriate boning. No, I'm not talking about using 'whalebone'. Rather I need to add more boning to avoid the unsightly 'wrinkle' just under the bust. The second change I intend to make, is to add more appropriate sleeves. Spanish sleeves never opened where I have the openings. I also plan to make a farthingale (a 16th century 'hoop skirt') to give my outfit the right structure.

Since the time the picture above was taken, I have raised the waistline of the dress about 2 inches, as it was cutting me in half when I sat down. Having tried the dress out with the raised waistline, I'm not particularly impressed with the way it looks. I think the best bet is to keep the 'regular' waistline of the dresses, but create a long line, Elizabethan style corset, using somewhat flexible boning. As seen in some drawings/paintings of the time period, some of the dresses had a distinctly rounded, yet supported bodice (right: close up detail of a female listener from 'St. Felix Preaching', by Joan de Burgunya, 1520).

With this dress I plan to raise the hem approximately 4-6 inches and add a black (velveteen or linen) guard (vergarde) around the hem. With the material taken from the hem I plan to make some small cap, 'strip sleeves' with contrasting black trim like the sleeve shown in the picture to the right (picture a close-up of one of Mistress Constanzia's latest fashions).

Since I will be raising the skirt hem significantly, particularly as the farthingale will hold the skirt out further, I will clearly need to add something beneath it -- to show legs (even covered ankles and calves) would have been scandalous during the time period! To that end, I plan to make a new, colored underskirt/petticoat. I'm thinking of gold, with black pomegranate (apparently a symbol of Spain during the time period) or cinqefoils (a type of heraldic flower with 5 petals) appliqued around the hem.

While this is a great plan, it is a project for another day -- first things first, I need to FINALLY make myself the proper 'underpinnings' -- a farthingale and some form of corsetry.