Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Stocking Experiment - Version 1.0 Update - NEARLY DONE! (Woot!)

Well, this is just a quick update to show the current progress on my first stocking version. I am currently about 5 inches under the bend of the knee. Originally I had planned to make the stocking stop just over the top of the knee, but I think that might be awkward because I have 'full' calves. The problem is, if I narrow the stocking enough for it to fit the knee properly, it will be too narrow to get my chunky calf through. So, rather than going over the knee, I'm stopping just at the bottom of the knee and adding a 2-4 inch fold down cuff.

At this rate I will have version 1 of the stocking completed by the weekend, just in time to display at the Owl's Nest demo on Saturday. The next stocking will be made of red acryllic (because I have it hanging around and I am allergic to wool) and I will be meticulously recording the pattern for that stocking. Additionally, I will be trying a toe method based on the extant Egyptian style stockings. I haven't decided what style of heel to try for the second version, perhaps the Gunnister stocking heel type? Decisions, decisions.... :)

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Knitted Stocking Version 1 -- progress report

Well, it is now week 3 of my 'Knitted Stockings Experiment'. What started as simply a quiet way to kill several hours has expanded to become a long term A&S project on different kinds of knitted stockings. Why? (You may well ask)...Simply because there is a lack of research available for SCAdians regarding socks, and they are such a simple, yet potentially integral part of a proper period wardrobe. So...I'm going to play with socks.


With regard to this "lil project", I am in phase 1, that is creating a basic pattern for a simple knitted stocking. This phase is more for me than anyone else really, since I had never knitted a sock before. It is proving to be really interesting and giving me lots of things to think about in revising the pattern for version 2.


The ultimate goal is to create several different versions of stockings with different types of heels and construction, based upon period methods for knitting and creating sewn hosen/stockings.


Progress Report

My knitted stocking 'Mach 1' is coming along nicely, helped along in part by a particularly nasty sinus infection turned pneumonia, which has had me laid low for the last week and a half. Feeling poorly and out of sorts, I spent quite a bit of time lazing about, watching silly television and knitting (in between naps and bouts of coughing that is).

I turned the heel while waiting for a doctors appointment this past Wednesday. It went much easier than I expected. I followed a heel pattern I found on the internet since I had not worked a heel before. Funnily enough, I expected the heel turning to be time consuming and fiddly, but it really was quite easy and finished within half an hour!


That said, the 'flat knitting' aspect of this particular heel method bothers me a bit from a period perspective since the use of 'perl' stitches is largely held to have been purely decorative; and in the flat stitching method it becomes a structural thing rather than a decorative one. This of course raises the question of how heels would have been created in period. I am mentally playing around with how they can be created by knitting in the round rather than partitioning out the parts and knitting in the flat.

Currently I am heading up the leg, approximately mid-calf. I've been pleasantly surprised with how quickly things are going, particularly since I am not the fastest knitter around (although perhaps I am improving a bit?). I plan to work on my stocking during the SCA demo in Marietta next weekend and with a bit of luck should have version 1 of my stocking project done by the end of the demo.
Knitting stocking project not withstanding, I will be working on two appliqued heraldic pillows later this week -- lumbar cushions for Ken and I to take to the demo next weekend. I will post pictures when they are finished.



Wednesday, June 3, 2009

A deviation from the 'plan'...but success nonetheless

Well, as my (few) readers know, I have a 'want to make' list a mile long. So, one would think that I would have started in on that, right? Hmm, not quite.
While my college roomie was in town the other weekend I volunteered to babysit her nearly 2 year old so she and her hubby could go see the Braves play. Since I am something of a novice with toddlers, when he fell asleep soon after mum and dad left, I did whatever I could to stay quiet for the afternoon so that he could keep on sleeping (let sleeping babies lie and all that!).

Keeping quiet presented a problem for me because I had planned to do some sewing, but with a baby in the house, breaking out needles, scissors and such didn't seem like a wise thing to do. So, as I sat there with 'Cinderella' playing softly in the background, I spied my long neglected craft basket with several skiens of yarn.

Initially I started winding a burgundy skein with the idea of making a pair of scoggers (Elizabethan 'arm warmer' sort of things). When doing that it occurred to me that I couldn't document scoggers in relation to my persona. Since my goal for the year is to create a completely period outfit for my persona, I didn't see the point in starting something that was not appropriate. To that end, I switched and picked up the cream colored yarn, deciding to try making a pair of knitted stockings.
A few notes:
  • These are not 'Elizabethan' style stockings. I have not done much research on period socks/stockings/hose at this point, but I do know that Elizabethan style stockings had 'clocks' on the ankles. Since my period is more around 1480, I elected to go for a simple, more 'rustic' simple stocking.
  • I do not claim that my methods at this stage are period. Again, since I haven't done much research at this stage, I can't say how period my pattern is, this is compounded by the fact that I am cobbling the pattern together as I go along.
  • This is my first attempt at knitting a stocking or any other kind of 'sock' so it is definitely a learning process.

The way I'm approaching things is this....

From what research I have done for previous knitted projects (see knitted hats of the 15th C.) knitting patterns in period were not written down. Rather, it seems knitters learned the basics (increases, decreases for fitting, etc...) and knitted projects accordingly. Therefore, making the pattern up as I go along and fitting the sock to my foot or leg as needed, is an acceptably period way of going about it. Since my first attempt is likely not going to be 'perfectly' fitted, the second stocking will fit differently. I believe this too is period as it is not likely that two socks from the same pair will be exactly identical, a dropped stitch here, forgotten decrease there, and bang....you have a 'different' stocking.

At best, I figure I'll end up with a wearable pair of stockings even if they are a bit different in fit (since I plan to use what I learn on stocking 1, when making stocking 2). Failing that, if I really dislike having essentially 2 different stockings, I can always make a 3rd using the pattern from stocking 2, then relegate version 1.0 to being a fighting favor for Ken (kinda racy...but hey, at least it will have a use!).

What I've done so far

Since I really hate starting knitting in the round and wanted to work on the foot part first, I used a technique in which I started at the toes. By casting on to two needles using a figure eight cast on, I was able to use only 3 needles to knit the toes of my sock. This was definitely experimental for me as I didn't have a pattern for it, I was just playing around. Upon doing other research, it turns out that this technique is becoming quite popular amongst sock knitters. The bonus for this is that there is no seam at the toes.

After knitting up for several hours while the toddler was snoozing on the couch, I had gotten about 3 inches done, tried it on my foot and found that it was far too roomy. So I pulled it apart and started again the next day while Ken practiced fencing.

The toe looks vaguely 'duck billed' in this version (see picture at right). This is because I was doing the increases on both sides which was adding 2 too many stitches in each round. In the next version I plan to do my increases on one side only so that I end up with a stocking that will be right or left footed (depending on the side I put the increases on). I also think the duck-bill effect arose because of way my foot is shaped, I have a jutting bone near my big toe, but then my foot narrows significantly through the ball/arch/sole area.

At the moment I have knitted the heel flap and turned the heel (see picture at right: bottom of heel). This was a new experience for me, but so far it seems to be working as it should. My only concern is that the heel looks a bit narrow. I think for version 1.2 I will start with more stitches on the heel needle (maybe 14 instead of 10) and only decrease to 6 stitches (instead of 4). For the moment, I'm hoping that the heel area will stretch to fit my heel. If not, then a 'favor' this will be. :)

I am planning to knit up to the knee, just below it actually. Then I will make some tablet woven garters to hold the stockings up.

Due to the very nature of knitted stockings, there are very few extant examples, so there is alot that we don't know about them, leaving us really only able to make educated guesses.If you know of some good sources on period socks/stockings/hose, please feel free to post them to the comments section!

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

My Project List

Well...while I am pleased with getting my chemise remade and getting a set of bases (French, late 15th C. upper garb) made for Ken, the list of things that need to be made (or that I *want* to make) is staggering -- JUST FOR ME!

So, here is my list (I'll mark them off as I finish them)....
  • new body block (bodice pattern for those not familiar with sewing terms)
  • a body block for hose (yup -- I'm going to attempt to make proper linen stockings)
  • a simple farthingale (I already have the materials for this, just need to get it going)
  • a simple corset (again, already have the materials, just need to take measurements and start working on it)
  • add stripes to my other chemise and raise the neckline by 4 inches (an ant fell out of a tree and down my cleavage at the last event...rather uncomfortable place for bites and doesn't look particularly lady-like which fishing the angry ant out either!)
  • black linen dress with red trim and short cap sleeves
  • red linen petticoat with black guards around the bottom (one large black stripe, bordered on each side with a thin black stripe, with gold calatrava crosses appliqued on the large black stripe)
  • black and white embroidered partlet (high collared -- to help with the 'ant' problem :)
  • black bag cap and a stuffed pony tail
  • add red or black trim to purple dress
  • raise hem of olive dress and add a black guard around the bottom, as well as lowering and squaring the neck line (to wear with a black linen petticoat
  • blue with red trim spanish 'waist' dress (looks like a bodice with a short peplum skirt attached, worn over a matching full length skirt)
  • Elizabethan loose overcoat style dress (kind of an Elizabethan 'housecoat' worn over other dresses for an added layer of warmth in winter)
  • 2 new chemises (1 with red stripes and 1 square necked chemise with blackwork and beading around neckline)

Whew! That is my clothing list. Lucky for me Ken can do his own sewing! On top of the clothing, I want to add a 'few' (hah!) heraldic items to our camping/event gear including:

  • chair covers (Ken is making stamps of our primary charges and we plan to stamp the covers to mark them)
  • paint our heraldry on our feastgear (plates and bowls)
  • make a painted square banner for me
  • finish Ken's painted square banner
  • silverware pouches
  • leather cup sleeves (lots of SCAdian's have the same style of drinking mugs, so we need a way to distinguish ours)
  • heraldic napkins
  • box for carrying feastgear
  • and last but very necessary.... pilgrims bags (for toting stuff around events and a place to hang all of the event tokens we are collecting)

So there you have it....the to-do list that keeps growing!

Striped Chemise - DONE


Well, the chemise has been done for two weeks now, but I am just now getting back to the blog.

After marking the the lines with the washable marker, I used the very thin (1/4 inch wide) black satin ribbon and stitched along the marked lines with a zigzag stitch. Getting the right size zigzag stitch is somewhat difficult, but is a key part of getting the ribbon to lay flat. If the zigzag is too narrow or you are not sewing straight, then the ribbon will end up looking slightly scalloped in shape rather than straight. The second stripe from the bottom shows this somewhat 'rippled' effect.

I was a bit miffed about this rippled effect initially but then remembered Mistress Constanzia's sewing mantra --

If it can't be seen 10 feet away or by candlelight, it isn't worth worrying about!

I really like that rule. :)

After sewing on all of the stripes, I put the shirt back together and finished the edges of the sleeves and neckline with black binding. I am pretty happy with the final result (pictured at right -- kindly ignore my headdress and red face. It was hot and my headdress was slipping off the back of my head -- Note to self, must make better headgear!).

So, what did I learn in doing this?
  1. I need more work sewing a straight line! I have therefore decided that every chemise I make for myself, for the foreseeable future, will be a striped chemise. Putting the stripes on is an EXCELLENT exercise in sewing straight. Besides that, until I can work out the exact setting so that the zigzag doesn't cause a ripple, I vow to keep practicing.

  2. Stripes are not overly hard to put on (if you don't worry about the ripples) but do alot for adding some non-shiny 'bling' to a Spanish oriented SCA outfit.

Next personal sewing project: a lightweight, Tudor style "payre'o bodies' (corset) out of linen and a farthingale (Spanish style hoop skirt).